Chicken Biryani

This chicken biryani is the best that I've found. I think that it originated in one of Madhur Jaffrey's books, but I've made some adaptations over the years. It can be served either with a vegetable curry or a simple tomato/red onion/coriander salad.

Don't be put off by the time taken to make this - a lot of this is'passive' time, waiting for rice to soak etc.

• 1 lb basmati rice
• 3 tbsp salt
• 1 tsp saffron
• 2 tbsp milk
• 3 large onions
• 4 cloves garlic
• 1 inch 'thumb' of ginger
• 4 tbsp slivered or flaked almonds
• 8 tbsp vegetable oil
• 3 tbsp raisins
• 8 chicken thighs, skinless, bone in or out according to preference
• 250ml plain yoghurt
• 5-6 whole cloves
• ½ tsp black peppercorns
• 0.5 tsp cardamom seeds (i.e. out of the pods)
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 1" cinnamon stick
• ⅙ (0.1) of a nutmeg
• ¼ tsp cayenne (optional)
• 2 tbsp unsalted butter

Wash the rice, then put it in a bowl with 4 pints of water and 1 tbsp salt. Soak for 3 hours. Toast the saffron threads, then soak in the milk for 3 hours.

Cut two of the onions into fine half rings, and set aside. Chop the remaining onion into chunks, then place in a blender with the garlic, ginger, 2 tbsp of the almonds and 3tbsp water. Blend to a smooth paste.

Heat 4 tbsp of the oil ina large saute pan. Add the onion half rings, and stir fry until brown and crispy. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. Put the raisins into the same oil. When they plump, remove and drain. Repeat this with the remaining 2tbsp of almonds. Set these aside for the garnish.

Brown the meat in batches; put the browned meat into a bowl.

Add the remaining 4tbsp oil to the pan, and add the onion paste from the blender. Stir fry until the paste turns a light brown colour. Return the meat to the pan, then add the yoghurt one tablespoonful at a time, stirring well each time. Add 175ml water and 1.25 tsp salt. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 30 minutes.

Grind the spices finely. Once the meat has cooked for 30 minutes, add the spices. Cover and simmer for anotehr 30 minutes. Remove the lid, raise the heat slightly, and cook until the sauce thickens (needs to be really rather thick).
Turn off the heat and spoon off as much fat as you can.

Spread the meat and sauce in the bottom of a large casserole and keep warm.

Bring a large pot of water to the boil, and add 1.5 tbsp salt. Scatter in the soaked rice and cook for 6 minutes. Drain.

Pile the rice on top of the meat in a volcano shape, and use the handle of a wooden spoon to make a hole all the way down the centre of the volcano. Drizzle the rice with the saffron-infused milk, and then dot with the unsalted butter. Cover tightly and cook at 150C for 1 hour.

When ready to serve, either mix gently and garnish with the raisins, almonds and onions or, for more impressive presentation, garnish the 'volcano' in vertical stripes with the various garnishes and take to the table - make sure that everybody gets a fair share of the chicken and sauce when serving.

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